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We have all heard about collagen’s importance in maintaining skin integrity. In fact, collagen at around 30% of all proteins found in the body is the most abundant protein, as well as being the skin’s primary building block. Proteins are made from amino acids, and the major amino acids comprising collagen are proline, glycine and hydroxyproline. These three amino acids (AA) form protein fibrils in a triple helix structure.
Vitamin C, zinc, copper and some manganese play roles in making the triple helix fibrils. After we look briefly at collagen’s role in maintaining youthful skin we will return to this important point, for collagen synthesis depends on two things; the amino acids themselves, plus the presence of elements and compounds necessary for the formation of robust protein fibrils.
Gives strength and elasticity to your skin.
Aids in new fibroblast formation.
Plays a role in replacing dead skin cells.
Forms a grid in the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the dermis, which provides a support structure for the upper layers of the skin.
Bottom line, without sufficient collagen the skin starts to sag, wrinkle and exhibit other signs of aging. However, these visible aging signs can be forestalled as long as collagen production is adequate, and the good news is that continuation of normal skin function is achievable by following a few simple steps. But before we get to the how-to, let’s pay a visit to the how-not-to.
Finally, a valid study has appeared which supports the advice the Marie Veronique team has been giving its customers for years, i.e., collagen peptide supplements likely aren’t going to do
We get asked about supplementation with collagen peptides all the time. Our answer has always been: peptides containing two or three amino acids derived from animal collagen get broken down in the GI tract to get used by the body as needed, wherever needed. The odds of them getting to the dermis to assist in collagen biosynthesis are extremely low.
What about the claims from the supplement industry? Peeking behind the curtain we find that because the FDA only minimally regulates supplements, “efficacy studies” are frequently funded by industry itself and do not have to meet the strict standards imposed by science, that is, controlled, randomized and double-blind. These studies frequently do not have the same level of peer review and are not published in established scientific journals. A controlled study recently published in JAMA refutes claims from the supplement industry vis a vis collagen peptides improving skin quality.
“…in the subgroup meta-analysis by funding source, studies not receiving funding from pharmaceutical companies revealed no effect of collagen supplements for improving skin hydration, elasticity, and wrinkles, while those receiving funding from pharmaceutical companies did show significant effects. Similarly, high-quality studies revealed no significant effect in all categories, while low-quality studies revealed a significant improvement in elasticity.”
The researchers’ conclusion:
“There is currently no clinical evidence to support the use of collagen supplements to prevent or treat skin aging.” (1)
On behalf of skin care formulators everywhere I want to thank Drs. Myung and Park for giving us definitive evidence to support the argument that collagen peptides are a waste of money and time.
I have been asked a question about my view of collagen peptide injections. There are only a few research articles available on this topic, most of them from the last 5 years. Some of these found evidence that injected collagen can be used as a filler, and could temporarily improve on wrinkle depth, skin appearance. A research article published in 2025 from the International Journal of Peptide Research and Therapeutics discusses new advances in peptide drug delivery systems. Here’s what the authors have to say:
“Complex peptide injectables represent an advanced class of pharmaceuticals with high therapeutic potential. These peptides, which mimic or modulate naturally occurring peptides in the body, offer targeted and effective treatment for various diseases. However, their structural complexity—influenced by length, sequence, and post-translational modifications—presents challenges in formulation, stability, and delivery.” Complex Peptide Injectables: Development and Challenges. (2)
It’s a vastly complicated issue, because the same problems confronting oral supplementation apply here, enzymatic degradation as well as testing for and ensuring targeted delivery.
Supplementation is very effective and can even be employed to boost collagen production in the skin; it just takes a bit of know-how to get it right. This begs the question, if we’re not going to supplement with collagen peptides what do we do instead? We at Marie Veronique have a simple rule of thumb—find out how nature does it, and then copy her as closely as possible. Following that model, this is our advice.
It’s in two parts: oral and topical.
Remember the list of compounds and elements needed to make the triple helix? Hint: the magic four were a vitamin and three minerals.
Vitamin C hydroxylates proline to make hydroxyproline; it is the first step in collagen production. Indeed, the mantra is, no Vitamin C, no collagen.
—> Recommendation: take 500 mgs 2x a day.
—> Recommendation: take one trace mineral tablet daily.
In summary, “A deficiency of microelements has an adverse effect on human development and health, including the functioning and appearance of the skin. In the context of skin ageing, attention is also paid to the role of minerals such as selenium, zinc, copper and silicon.” (3)
We can think of topicals as the complement to oral supplements; if you are serious about extending the life span of your skin, both are necessary. The addition of topicals makes sure that the skin is targeted to get its share of the benefits; not much will get directed to the skin on an oral supplementation’s journey through the GI tract—especially in the case of Vitamin C.
Two vitamins stand out in our longevity quest: ascorbic acid and retinol. This dynamic duo initiates collagen synthesis by sending signals to fibroblasts to begin collagen production, while additional messages are sent to the enzymes and fibroblasts on the extracellular matrix (ECM) team.
ALL DAY AGE-DELAY EMULSION is the first in our new line of skin longevity topicals. It uses the senomorphs bakuchiol (a functional analogue of retinoids) and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (a Vitamin C derivative) to stimulate collagen production, among other important functions. Unlike peptides that transmogrify on their journey through the GI tract (peptides break up easily as amino acids are cleaved) these senomorphs are delivered directly and more likely intact to the fibroblasts in the dermis where collagen production actually starts.
As we age, we accumulate senescent cells (SCs) which produce the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). You can think of SASP as a set of pro-inflammatory signals that drive age-related dysfunction.
Senomorphs are “a wide range of agents that can modulate the phenotypes of SCs to those of young cells without induction of SC apoptosis. Senomorphics include previous anti-aging or anti-senescence compounds, such as telomerase activator, caloric restriction diets, sirtuin activators, mTOR signaling, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents targeting senoinflammation or inflammaging, autophagy activators, and proteasome activators." (4)
Senomorphs such as Vitamin C, retinol and bakuchiol, when applied topically, slow SASP-dependent aging processes by altering cell signaling, for example, they activate cell signaling pathways that promote gene expression of extra cellular matrix (ECM) components, including collagen types I and IV found in the skin.
All Day Age-Delay Emulsion—contains two important senomorphs: bakuchiol, extracted from the Psoralea corylifolia plant, which has cell-signaling actions similar to retinol, and Vitamin C, which complements and augments the work of retinol and bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol—upregulates key ECM genes which signal fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin. It also reduces activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), inhibits production of pro-inflammatory cytokines and scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS). Researchers propose that “bakuchiol can function as an anti-ageing compound through retinol-like regulation of gene expression.” (5)
Vitamin C—an enzymatic co-factor which assists key enzymes prolyl and lysy hydroxylase essential to collagen production, it can also regulate DNA methylation which influences gene expression of cell differentiation and age-associated factors.
Bakuchiol + Vitamin C—this senomorphic combination is a beautiful example of synergy at work. Bakuchiol signals collagen production to begin in much the same manner as retinol, while Vitamin C provides the essential co-factors which drive the later stages of production.
All Day Age-Delay Emulsion: apply daily under sunscreen. If you are pregnant*, breastfeeding* or have sensitive or sensitized skin you may also use All Day Age-Delay Emulsion as your nightly treatment in place of Multi-Retinol Night Emulsioin or another retinoid product.
Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion: apply nightly to get the added benefit of retinol signaling.
All Day Age-Delay Emulsion + Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion: if retinol is well-tolerated the two can be used together nightly to deliver age-delay benefits with a powerful synergy boost. Bakuchiol stabilizes retinol and delivers anti-inflammatory effects, while retinol stimulates collagen production and promotes cell turnover. Highly recommended for ages 40+.
Vitamin C 500 mg 2x a day
Trace minerals 1 tab 1 x a day
B-complex vitamins—as nutritional yeast or capsules—vitamin C helps the body absorb B vitamins, and they support each other to deliver skin health benefits.
IV vitamin therapies deliver significantly higher doses of usable nutrients and you may want to consider them; of course, always consult with a medical practitioner before embarking on a course of IV vitamin therapy. As for peptide injectables, my guess is that the problems rendering oral peptide delivery ineffective will also apply to injectables—peptide degradation and missing the desired targets—though perhaps to a lesser degree. A safer and more effective bet for your skin in our view will consist of daily topical and oral supplementation, with maybe an occasional vitamin injectable.
Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.
*We always advise checking with your physician when choosing products for the duration of pregnancy and breastfeeding.
References
^ Effects of Collagen Supplements on Skin Aging: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials. Seung-Kwon Myung, MD, PhD., Yunseo Park https://www.amjmed.com/article/S0002-9343(25)00283-9/abstract
^ Complex Peptide Injectables: Development and Challenges https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10989-025-10710-5
Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review, Monika Michalek, et
al. https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/13/1/203
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6386227/ Senotherapeutics: Emerging Strategies for healthy aging and age-related disease
Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed
by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects;
RK Chaudhuri et al https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12117